具有恒久價值的日常物品,愛沙尼亞 / Mirja Pitk??rt

“真誠、觸感、價值”

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非常感谢Mirja Pitkäärt将以下内容授权gooood发行。更多请至:Mirja Pitkäärt on gooood 
Appreciation towards Mirja Pitkäärt for providing the following description:

Mirja Pitkäärt,是一位工作居住在巴黎,毕业于伦敦时尚学院,维也纳应用艺术大学的爱沙尼亚女性设计师,她在产品设计和设计领域拥有过人才华,为多个知名品牌比如Anja Bruhn, Fleet Ilya, Ally Capellino Louis Vuitton从事高档皮革领域方面的工作。最近她的系列”Objects Of Enduring Value 具有恒久价值的日常物品”赢得了ITS颁发的年度配件系列奖(Accessories Collection of the Year)。 具有触感的皮革材质和木质材料引发人们的好奇心,让人不禁想亲手触摸、握在手中。Mirja Pitkäärt在爱沙尼亚艺术学院的皮革设计学习经验为日后的配件设计职业开启了道路。该系列产品的制作中,她采用3D设计软件和数控铣床设备创造出如手工艺品般精致的日常用品。她尝试在时尚和产品设计之间寻求平衡,为日常产品赋予时尚感。“真诚、触感、价值”是对“Objects Of Enduring Value 具有恒久价值的日常物品”的全面总结。Mirja Pitkäärt喜欢皮革的柔软触感,喜欢木材的树结和纹理,接下来她将继续为ITS设计新的作品,也将会面临更多新的挑战。

Mirja Pitkäärt, a native of Estonia currently residing in Paris, has a special ability to create accessories that exist in between product design and fashion design. She’s just finished an MA in Fashion Artefact at the London College of Fashion and also studied Leather Design at the Estonian Academy of Arts and Textile Design at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna. Mirja has worked in Berlin, London and Paris for brands such as Anja Bruhn, Fleet Ilya, Ally Capellino and Louis Vuitton, specializing in luxury leather products. Her new collection “objects of enduring value” won the prestigious Accessories Collection of the Year award from ITS. People are curious about the tactile leather and wood and want to touch and hold them in their hands. Her experience of studying leather design in the Estonian Academy of Arts gave her an introduction into accessory design. She used 3D design software and CNC milling machine in this collection and created a series of daily articles as delicate as traditional hand-made products. She pursues balance between fashion and product design. We can always find the shade of fashion in her works. “Honest, tactile, valuable” are three defining words for “Objects of Enduring Value”. Mirja Pitkäärt likes the softness of leather and the knots and lines of wood. Next, she plans to use all her spare time to work on the new collection for ITS, more challenges to come.

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“情感可持续设计”是设计师Jonathan Chapman可持续设计的新理念。这种理念试图通过在使用者和产品之间建立长久的关系来达到减少消费和浪费的目的。该理念探索如何让产品随着时间和使用的增加彰显出有价值的老化痕迹;以及如何让产品与使用者的关系随着时间的流逝更加深厚和更具价值。

Emotionally durable design is a new genre of sustainable design recognised by Jonathan Chapman. It is an approach that intends to reduce consumption and waste by increasing the durability of
relationships established between users and products. A design concept that deals with studies about how material surfaces age and develop through time and use, and how objects would be capable of supporting deeper and more meaningful relationships with their users over a longer period of time.

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我试图通过个性化的设计方法来提升物品的情感价值,延长物品的使用期限。我将传统制造方法和工业制造方法结合起来创造出极具价值和真诚的设计作品。手工和大规模生产方法相结合制造出来
的产品向人们宣告有价值的产品并不等于奢侈品。该设计的初衷是让产品的使用体验与老化程度成正比。这就需要具有良好触摸感、且其老化不会降低产品价值的材料。在这种设计理念和美学概念
的指导下,我采用3D技术设计了一系列产品,试图打破3D技术无法达到手工产品的触摸感和精细外观的固有思维。在数字设计过程中,我充分发挥想象,努力使手工艺品和机械制造产品之间的界限趋于模糊。有形物体很重要的一点便是材料的选择,因为材料的纹理、形状、重量和温度很大程度上决定我们对物品的理解。选用材料是我工作的重要内容。在该项目中,我选用了木材和皮革,这两种材料均具有良好触感,且其老化会不断增加产品价值。它们会对周围的环境做出反应,每一次手的触摸和时间的流逝都会在它们身上留下印记。我采用对浅色植物鞣革来,触摸时手上的油渍和直射阳光将产生更为明显的老化效果。

Investigating the principles of emotionally durable design, I intended to develop a personal design approach aiming to encourage emotional value of things and to extend the lifespan of objects of use. Using methods of production that are a combination of traditional and industrial manufacturing to create products that stand for meaningful and sincere design. Working between the areas of the hand-made and mass-production and differing the meaning of value from luxury in the context of design objects.

The starting point for the design process was to create products with increased ease of handling. Using materials that are pleasurable to feel and that have a way of ageing that doesn’t decrease
their value. The idea was to apply the concept and aesthetic to a variety of products and test the possibilities as well as the limitations of 3D technology. Exploring a new way of making I aimed
to break the assumptions that 3D technology fails to convey a similar sort of feel for shape as the hand-made does. By using creative imagination in the process of making digital designs I try to blur the borders between the handmade craft objects and the machine-made design objects. A great part in the making of tangible objects is the importance of the material used, how the texture,
form, weight and temperature of the object has an important part of understanding the object. The choice of materials has an important part in my work, associating materials like wood and leather
with the pleasure of touch and a positive aging process. They react to their environment, picking up marks from your hands and aging with time. I used vegetable tanned leather dyed in light colours to emphasize the aging process, when the oils from the hands absorb while being handled and when it tans over time in direct sunlight.

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该项目的目标是设计能够丰富我们日常生活的日常产品,并延长它们的使用期限。为了实现长使用寿命,并帮助产品与使用者之间建立深厚且具有价值的关系,我将关注点放在触感材料及产品外观
上,设计了一系列具有内涵、产生积极的老化效果和极佳触感的产品。这些日常产品被赋予了新的外观、材料和触感,带来了更好的触觉体验,因此将有效延长其使用寿命。该系列产品诠释了我对
情感可持续设计的个人理解,共包含如下八种产品(带基座):

梳子—非洲黑檀
笔记本—植物鞣革
书—植物鞣革
盒子—枫木和植物鞣革
手握物—枫木和植物鞣革
笔—枫木和非洲黑檀
指环—非洲黑檀
手链—枫木和非洲黑檀

The aim of the completion of the project was to materialize an attempt to design products of ordinary function that could enrich our daily life and do so for a sustained period of time. In order to create appropriate conditions for long lasting, meaningful relationships with the objects to emerge, I concentrated on the use of tactile materials and shapes to design sincere objects that have a purpose, age well and allow a satisfying sensation of touch. I gave objects that are familiar to us from everyday use a new shape, material and sense that would give a more rewarding haptic experience and would therefore prolong their lifespan. The collection of artifacts translates my personal understanding of emotionally durable design projected on a selection of objects.

The collection consists of 8 objects with a negative space stand:
A comb – african blackwood
A notebook – veg tan leather
A book – veg tan leather
A box – maple wood and veg tan leather
A clutch – maple wood and veg tan leather
A pen – maple wood and african blackwood
A ring – african blackwood
A cuff – maple wood and african blackwood

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